Thursday, 27 September 2012

New York, New York !

Our first day here consisted of flight,shuttle from airport  and a stroll to the local pub for dinner & beer.
Day 2 had us walking from E 29th street where we were staying to Battery Park to catch the ferry to the Statue Of  Liberty before an extended visit to Ellis Island for a fascinating tour of the museum of immigration  there.

NYPublic Linbrary

Nice Work If You Can Get It

Blue Smoke / Jazz Standard


Thursday, 20 September 2012

Buffalo & Niagara

A short flight to Buffalo where we planned a couple of relatively quiet days either side of a trip to Niagara.
Our first day was spent wandering round town which had its fair share of art deco buildings one of which - the City Hall - had a free viewing gallery from which you had a 360 degree view of  the town,Lake Erie & a distant hint of the mist at the falls. We took the bus to the falls ($4 return each) & enjoyed the one hour bus ride along Lake Erie. Unfortunately we arrived at the same time as the rain set in and were caught in  torrent as we crossed the Niagara river en route to the viewing point. Despite this the falls were still spectacular although probably better viewed from the Canadian side which we decided to pass on in the conditions. W did however get tse a rainbow over the falls as the sun came out later. Next stop New York !

Chicago 17/18 Sept

A 4 and a half hour flight via Kansas City and a two hour time shift brought us to the Windy City at 7.30 where temperatures were 10 degrees lower than we had got used to in the south. The shuttle to our hotel in the centre gave us views of the iconic architecture familiar from so many movies & TV shows e.g.Bullit. Blues Brothers. After breakfast in a typical diner - did I mention the size of the meals ! - we decided to have a walk around the immediate area towards the Navy Pier. This houses a "Stained Glass Museum" containing windows from old Chicago buildings produced amongst others by Tiffany in the late 19th early 20th century and was unusual for here in that it was free.The pier also gave us a good view of the Chicago skyline. Having checked out the listings we went to a Blue Chicago for the evening a bar that feature local blues bands for a minimal cover charge ($8). That nights band was a tight 4 piece plus a a female singer with an excellent voice & we  stayed until the 3rd set started at 12. The following night we returned for a similar show albeit with different personnel.& had another good night.

Saturday, 15 September 2012

Phoenix 15/9

The drive to Phoenix was uneventful except for the views of thousands of huge cacti once we hit the edge of the Sonora Desert. Phoenix was huge by comparison to anywhere we had been in since Las Vegas but we found our hotel 9 close to the airport & were happy not to leave it until it was time for our flight next morning.

Flagstaff & Route 66 14/9


The drive to Flagstaff  was short (70 miles) & allowed us to take in a 30 mile scenic loop through the Crater National Park. This had ruins of 1000 year old pueblo dwellings built by the first inhabitants who moved after one of the periods of volcanic activity. Driving further on brought us to the crater area itself where we took a short walk through the lava fields at the base of the crater which has been dormant now for hundreds of years. We moved on to Flagstaff which was a suitable place ro break what would have otherwise been a vcry long drive to Phoenix. Flagstaff makes much of its position on Route 66 & had a very well preserved old heart with a station & numerous other victorian buildings. It also had 4 micro breweries within a half mile radius two of which we visited for purposes of lunch & dinner. Breakfast in the old town was in a victorian cafe which was decorated with original posters from 1930's cowboy movies plus lots of other related ephemera e.g. John Wayne clock, branding irons etc. Next stop Phoenix for flight to Chicago having decided that perhaps New Orleans was not the best option at the moment.

Grand Canyon/Cameron 12/13


Our visit to the Grand Canyon was based at the Cameron Trading Post (another 100 year old establishment) about 25 miles away from the canyon itself and now a Navajo cooperative - still dry though.
We arrived in time to have our first view of the canyon at Desert View which was more impressive than either of us had expected - average 10 miles wide & 1 deep -despite having seen it on screen many times before.  The following day I drove  back to Desert View &  the extra 25 miles along the rim to the Grand Canyon Village/Visitor Center via various view points . I then walked 3+ miles of the rim following the "Trail of Time" which used stone at intervals to demonstrate the various strata of the canyon from the oldest 1.88 billion years to the most recent - only 600 million & provided amazing vistas. The walk was informative & although there were lots of other people around it did not seem to disturb the elk lying in the shade just outside the geological museum at the end.

Monument Valley 11/9


Another long drive which included varied scenery from the Dixie State Forest to desert & views crossing of the Colorado river/far east end of the Grand Canyon before arriving in the mesa scenery of the Monument Valley. We stayed at Gouldings Trading Post a hundred year old ( at least part of it was) place founded by the couple who were responsible for convincing John Ford to make 7 movies e.g. She Wore A Yellow Ribbon in Monument Valley. A 6.30 start in the morning for me produced what I think are stunning results of sunrise in the valley. Unfortunately the weather did not hold out for our guided trip into the canyon as it started raining at lunchtime & continued to pour for the duration of our 2 & a half hour tour although this did produce a strange chocolate coloured waterfall as a biproduct which our Hopi guide had never seen before. Never mind onward towards Grand Canyon  via the Navajo Tuba  City ( not very exciting as it is a dry area) . On our way to the Grand Canyon the following day we did see a very large collection of dinosaur tracks from plesiosaur to tyrannosaurus rex via some other large vegetarian beasts & their eggs.

Zion.Red.Bryce. Escalante

Our chosen destination of Bryce Canyon took us across 100 miles of desert & then across Zion Canyon National Park which in a perfect world we would have stayed & explored for a couple of days. Unfortunately we had already booked a night in Bryce Canyon so had to make do with the exhilarating drive & superb scenery in every shade from beige through orange to red  as we wended our wayup hill & down dale  through the canyon. This experience was repeated small scale when we drove through Red Canyon a few miles down the road towards Bryce. Bryce itself was absolutely superb and a particularly unique experience visually which the photos do not do anything like justicve to. After one night in the park we organised a further two at the Country Cowboy Inn in Escalante to enable us to further explore Bryce ( great walks round the rim with amazing views) . We also revisited Red Canyon (short hike) as well as visiting the Kodachrome Basin (Escalante National  Park for a shortstroll through what was just like an old western movie set - without the guns & horses.  Next stop Monument Valley

Las Vegas


What a bizarre place ! More casinos /shops/hotels ( there are nothing else in town) than you could imagine peopled by surgically & chemically altered people who found it a real struggle to smile - Have a nice day ? I failed dismally in my attempts to win a fortune - my dollar on the roulette failed & I decided enough was enough. Tomorrow its off to nature in a hire car - what a relief !

San Fran ,Gold Gate & Tamalpais

The drive to San Francisco took us  past Mount Tamalpais which we drove up to get a view of the San Francisco Bay - unfortunately not of the Golden Gate as there was too much mist - very atmospheric. One night in SF & a meal on Fishermans Wharf was all we could spare as we were off to Las Vegas in the morning having barely scartched the surface of the area - I'll be back !

Monte Rio for dinner


Long (10 hour ) drive from Yosemite back to Monte Rio to see an old schoolfriend (Geoff) for dinner at his home. The drive involved a typical UK bank holiday crawl as roads from Lake Tahoe & Yosemite converge into a huge tailback which added an hour & a half but did facilitate a picture of the "oldest saloon in the USA" and took us by the largest windfarm I've ever seen just outside San Francisco . Our arrival ijn Monte Rio was complicated by lack of cellphone coverage & only being able to find tourists to ask directions.  A kind shopkeeper allowed us use of her phone & the result was an excellent meal & great conversation with someone that I have only seen once in 45 years. After breakfast in the morning we went for a walk in the local Redwoods before setting off for San Francisco.

Wednesday, 5 September 2012

Yosemite !!! & Mammoth Lakes

Long drive from San Francisco but unforgettable scenery once we arrived at Yosemite early PM. we then drove 2 and half hours through the park & half an hour beyond to our accomm @ Mammoth Lakes stopping only a few times for unforgettable vistas & photo opportunities. The park brought my memories of black & white Ansel Adams photos of El Capitan & Half Dome to light & we had the following day to explore more thoroughly. We also spent a day going up to Mammoth Lakes proper to explore the scenery there.

San Rafael

Met Nicol who we had last seen in a guest house in Chiang Mai & had dinner in downtown San Rafael at a quirky place called Whipper Snapper.

Bodega Bay & Doran Beach

This resort was excellent although pricey but was peace personified .The local beach was unspoilt by development & hosted  penguins which I thought didn't get this far north . I was able to catch up with my old schoolfriend & arrange to stay & have dinner with him on our return from Yosemite.

Napa wine & Nepali cuisine

Drift through the Napa Valley to the Inn On The Vine & an excellent meal at The Himalaya restaurant in town accompanied by good local Cab Sav.

Santa Rosa via Russian River & brewery

Driving the coast in search of a dentist was not very successful  so we turned inland & pointed the wheels at santa Rosa the largest town within a 50 mile radius. Driving through we came upon Monte Rio where an old schoolfriend lived but were unable to trace him. More pain then relief from an anti-biotic prescribed by  a dentist who gave free treatment to people whose birthday was the following day !  13 excellent tasters of beer from the Russian River Brewery for my birthday lunch assisted the pain reduction considerably.

Eureka,Point Arena & N.California

Splendid views of the Oregon coastline on the way to Eureka. A town with a relatively complete Victorian building capsule at its heart. Beautiful town but we pressed on to our pre-booked accommodation at Point Arena via a coast road that swooped & soared round hairpin bends giving us views of the unspoilt Oregon coastline (all publicly owned so no nasty beachfront developments). Point Arena was a tiny fishing village in a sheltered  cove with a restaurant that provided a perfect spot to watch sunset over the Pacific.

Coos Bay & Dune Buggy ( OregonDunes)

Exhilarating if expensive $130 hour ride which I loved but had Jenny almost producing kittens as we accelerated up & then  plunged down dunes at alarming angles . The cause of alarm is that you had to time your stop at the top to check whether it was possible to get down without rolling - if not you had to reverse very carefully or try to turn & drive along the top to a safer place to get down ! Excellent

Tumwater to Garibaldi

Tumwater was OK - had copy of the US Capitol building as its County Hall & an interesting walk along the river where the old brewery & sawmill built by the founders of the town were situated

Bremerton & Vashon Island

Great scenery in Puget Sound - fun ferries on/off island

Friday, 17 August 2012

A bike on the Kettle Valley Railway

After our Mount Baker excursion we were game for more outdoors and loaded up 3 bikes on Jim's truck & set off for the Othello Tunnels.  This part of the long disused kettle Valley Railway is now part of the Trans Canada Trail and as it is an old railway bed is a very uniform gradient up the valley following the Coquihalla river . The tunnels (5) and the bridges (3) that join them were quite a feat of engineering in their day (1914)  and are still very impressive today as they thread their way through a canyon a couple of hundred feet deep. You can also as you can see from the photo clamber down the side of the canyon to see the rapids close up. The return ride only requires a couple of turns of the pedals & one can coast all the way down although it can be a little unnerving when the sun is fulll in your eyes for a few seconds & you cant see anything coming !

Tamihi river and a hike on Mount Baker

One afternoon Jenny & I set off with Jim to take a hike on a trail that follows the river Tamihi .  However once further progress in the Jeep was prevented by a locked gate we stepped out to find that the road had been widened & rebuilt ( for logging traffic) after a series of landslides had swept it away Eventually it did dwindle back to the original goat track as it fell towards the river & we were able to get down to the banks & appreciate the beauty of the rapids. Our drive back took us back into 4WD territory as we went over the Elk Mountain ridge back towards Chilliwack.
As a high of low 30's was forecast Jim & Lynn ( our hosts) suggested that we go south of the border to Washington & Mount Baker and get above the snowline where it is cooler. An hour and a half drive ( but as the  crow flies only 25 miles away) via the US border and we were at 5000ft in the car park  half way up the mountain.The drifts of snow remaining round this were only 10 feet deep but had been 30 feet only 3 weeks ago. The air was clear & temperature considerably cooler so we set off across the ridge for a walk. Equipped with ski poles for balance - quite useful on a narrow path across a 45 degree scree slope- we remained upright for the most part except for Jenny who was keen to try out her downhill skills on her backside. We walked for an hour or so each way stopping frequently to admire the absolutely stunning scenery. On our way back down the mountain we stopped at "Picture Lake" to admire the reflection of Mount Shuksan (. see photos). A hearty pasta inner on the return trip to the border completed a great afternoon & evening.

Thursday, 2 August 2012

Squamish & The Chief

A weekend in Squamish appealed as it was surrounded by mountainous provincial parks on the coast  and only a couple of hours drive from Chillliwack.  The drive was uneventful apart from the breathtaking views of the Howe Sound coast  from the Sea & Sky Highways  elevation on its way to Whistler once we passed Vancouver. We limited ourselves to a brief excursion around town after arriving on Friday.As we were walking along a narrow pathway towards the estuary intending to check out the birdlife we came across fresh evidence of bear activity& decided that discretion seemed in order. Saturday was overcast to start & the mountains around us were shrouded in mist for most of the morning so we confined ourselves to visiting the Shannon Falls. This was followed by a scenic drive & short walk into Garibaldi provincial park before repairing to the Howe Sound Brewery & Inn for excellent value food washed down with most authentic english style bitter.
Sunday was clear & sunny after checking ou twe decided to attempt.the Stawamus Chief or at least the 1st of the 3 granite peaks. These range from 610 to 715 metres high - our aim being the smallest - and soon discovered that to quote the notice at the foot "this was no walk in the park"asit involved lots of uneven steps some scambling and a couple of ladder & chain assisted sections. Expecting an hour & a half round trip we set off but the as Jenny was not 100% I went on alone. It turned out to be an hour & a half to the top for a fantastic view of the sound & mountains & a similarly hard hour long trek down. Once more we took refuge in the Howe Sound Inn for lunch and for me a reviving pint.of another excellent beer. My legs took 2 days to recover !

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Okanagan & East Kootenay 15-21 July

As we had  a car at our disposal we decided to take a short road trip towards the Rockies and see a little more of the interior of British Columbia. True to our previous form we set off into a grey drizzle which deteriorated into a downpour within a few miles and continued for the next couple of hours.  After  lunch in a small sleepy copper mining town astride the highway the weather brightened as we headed onward & we were were able to appreciate the empty roads and the beautiful forested backdrop.Our first target was Osoyoos a small lakeside town in the south of the Okanagan district which is renowned for its microclimate & production of fruit and as neared this we started  passing numerous  fruit farms and wineries - things were looking up .
 After a night in a local pub we headed north along the lakeside road in glorious sunshine and were treated to fantastic views of the lake all the way as the road wound up and down the arid mountain road.to Kelowna our next stop. This is the centre of the Okanagan wine region  and although we didn't do any cellar door tasting - too far to drive & drink- we tried some good local Shiraz & a very good Cab Sav.with dinner & watched the sun go down over the lake.
 We left Kelowna & headed further north easton the Trans Canada Highway  to the Selkirk Mountains through the Shuswap lake district (houseboat centre of canada ?) following the route of the Canadian Pacific Railroad to Revelstoke. This small town  owes its existence to the railway & houses a very interesting museum on the history and construction of the C.P.R. in tthe 19th century. Nowadays its income is from summer tourists to the nearby national parks & in winter from skiing.We had 2 pleasant evenings in town taking in the free music in the evening & sampling the produce of the local Mount Begbie brewery which was excellent.
From here it was back to Chilliwack via the scenic route of Upper Arrow Lake and a couple of ferries across it and a night back on the Okanagan Lake at Vernon.This appeared to be the focus of  some kind of event fpr elderly (as in my age  )Harley Davidson owners decked out in uniform e.g.  HD logo T-shirts ,levis,leather waistcoats,beard/moustache .The two who were the most magnificent had all of  these elements but topped with black tuirbans & huge white  beards - perhaps a sub-continentak homage to ZZ Top !

Tuesday, 10 July 2012

Vancouver 2 July

  • Arrival -  24 hours travel ex Sydney - was a great relief , as was being met & transported by Ben,Gwen & Lizzie to Chilliwack ( near Canada/US border) .Here we are being hosted by Jacob & Ben pending the homecoming of Lyn & Jim (their parents)from the east.. After a couple of days to recover from the jet lag we set off with Lizzie to the Sunshine Coast just north of the city.A  2hr drive took us to Horseshoe Bay to get the ferry & we had moved from city to a landscape dominated by sea & trees with a snow capped mountain backdrop. A 40 minute sailing took us to Langdale & the Sunshine Coast , 100kms of small secluded bays & townships embedded in temperate rainforest. We were staying 2 nights in Pender Harbour (1 hour north) in a small resort overlooking the harbour. The resort was beautiful & had an excellent restaurant on site so we ventured no further than there for the rest of the day.
  • Next day we set off north with no destination iin mind but decided en route to go to Egmont for the forest walk to Skoookumchuck Narrrows a tidal rapid which is a very impressive view  as the tide turns which it did while we were there. Our final morning was spent in the "spa garden"( sauna,jacuzzi,salt water plunge pool ) & very relaxing before heading back to the ferry & Chilliwack..
  • The next day was Lizzie's last & was spent driving to the Bridal Vail recreational area to see the falls of the same name which were spectacular due to the recent volume of rain locally.

Geelong in winter - aaagh!

Despite it being a great relief to get there after nearly 14 hours it was a real shock to step out into a temperature of 12C after having spent 5 months at no lower than 20 and up to the high 30's. We were warmed that evening by the greetings & red wine at Michael & Leslies and th.e following morning by the enthusiastic greeting from William & Sarah. Our stay was short but despite freezing delicate parts of our anatomies it was lovely to catch up with everyone. Next stop Vancouver & Chilliwack !

Thursday, 5 July 2012

Beijing

After collection from the airport we went directly to the 791 District. This was originally an East German built electricals factory but is now occupied by a number of artists workshops/studios and galleries. The work was interesting and eclectic (see photos and if we had been in Beijing for longer I would have liked to spend some more time there. Post lunch (another feast) we set off to the Summer Palace. This  was built by the emperors wife who was probably personally responsible for provoking the eventual revolution by her extravagance and mistreatment of the population. The palace contains a wooden covered walkway a  half a mile long which is decorated throughout by beatifully painted scenes.  The site is huge & built around a man made lake & has (of course ) its own imperial temple.
Day 2 began early with a short drive to Tianamen Square which is vast but apart from containing Mao's mausoleum has only a few buildings in the Soviet brutalist style. It does also lead to the Forbidden City which is considerably more impressive even in the haze of trafffic pollution which is ever present in Beijing. This is a series of courtyards each more ornate until you get to the central imperial living quarters. they are all extremely ornate & the furnishings which you can see are similar ( they could however do with a duster run over them). There are carvings and relics at every turn such as the 200 ton piece of carved stone which was transported to the site in winter by pouring water on to the ground to freeze to facilitate sliding the stone along - it took months ! After this we went on a rickshaw tour of the "hutongs" an old part of town laid out when Mongolians were in charge of Beijing. These were single storey homes with 4/5 laid out round a rtiny courtyard. Bathrooms/toilets were communal & still are at 60 mtr intervals. We had lunch in one of these which was cooked by the ancestor (grandson) of a chef to the last emperor (see photo). Our last stop of the day was the Temple of Heaven which was used by emperors on äuspicious"occasions e.g solstices,festivals harvest time etc
Day 3. A long drive to the ""Sacred Path" which is dedicated to the Ming emperors whose tombs are situated nearby but never visited by the highly superstitious Chinese. The path has ceremonial gates at either end and is lined with statues of animals - good to pose with. Next step was the big one the Great Wall. We approached this by cable car but it was not apparent until we got to the last minute or so of our ascent.At this point you begin to appreciate the scale (at least as far as you can see in the limited visibility) and the immensity of the construction as the materials have to be hauled to the top of the ridge through very thick forest.We walked for 45 mins each way via a couple of the towers baulking and turning when the ascent was one in 3 for the next quarter mile.A fantastic way to end our stay in China.  Back to the hotel for a brief lie down before setting off for our 1.30 a.m fli.ght to Melbourne.

Wednesday, 4 July 2012

Xian & Terrracotta Warriors

After an hour drive from the airport & having checked in to our hotel we were ready for lunch but not for the vast amount with which our table was laden. It was however really tasty & we left ready to see the Big Wild Goose Pagoda (BWGP) -not to be confused with the Small WGP close by- an interesting building/complex constructed by a buddhist monk 600 years previously to house religious manuscripts owned by the then emperor. We followed this by a visit to the local mosque which was very similar architecturally to the buddhist temples we had seen elsewhere . it was set at the heart of "muslim street" a bazaar like market street which had a mix of muslim food shops ( Xian is the end of the Silk Road) & the same souvenirs we had seen elsewhere. Our last stop was the "Forest of stone steles museum" which was a little like the chinese equivalent of the rosetta stone only there were lots of them some of which contained finely carved  pictures as well as script.

Day 2 began early with a trip to the old city walls which are very well preserved with gates on the N,S,E and W sides. We hired cycles & rode a quarter of the way round & back ( there are 16kms in total) before setting off for the days highlight the Terracotta Warriors. On the way we stopped at a factory that made reproductions (including lifesize) of the originals & were demonstrated the process in miniature. After the demo we came to the hard sell part which we resisted resolutely & set off for the site proper.
 The site of the warrriors is a mile away from the emperors tomb & is a series of three pits which have been opened up, the warriors restored & then replaced in their original positions. Pit 1 the largest is 200x70 metres & contains more warriors than the other 2 put together. It is an amazing sight especially when you see the best ones displayed in the museum & can appreciate the detail & even see traces of the original paintwork The other 2 pits are still in the process of excavation & warrior reconstruction but demonstrate the structure of tthe roof which protected the warriors so effectively over time. Our last visit was to see the scale replicas of the emperors horse carriages & the bronze & gold original relics from that were displayed along side.
Day3/4 These were spent  walking around the old town & visiting the local museum which had a great collection of locally found relics (non-warrior related) plus a good selection of local painting both old and new. Next sto Beijing

Chengdu & Pandas

 I half expected a repeat of our Indian experience with tigers when we went to the Panda Breeding & conservation Centre but these thoughts were nullified when 10 minutes after entering we saw our first adult male lumbering towards us as we walked the path next to its forested enclosure. After watching him for a while we moved on to see a group of 8 juveniles (18-24 months) in the next enclosure playing & feeding no more than 15 feet from us but seemingly unaware that there was a  crowd of tourists madly shooting stills/video enthralled by their every move. We then went  to see a mother & her 2 infants  feeding with one of last years cubs sleeping in a nearby tree before seeing the red pandas (also very cute) & a selection of adult males in separate enclosures.  Our final stops were to the
 lake- see fish photo- and to see a film about the centre which was very informative as to how endangered they were & why - they are naturally born premature because of their poor diet.Next stop was of course another temple (enough said) followed by lunch and a visit to ""Jinli old street" old street being code for shopping/souvenir opportunity. Our final stop was a local tea house which was interesting as it was busy with a number of senior citizen card schools and mah jong players. Large numbers of these chatted whilst practising acupressure - slapping themselves to you and I -with an occasional one practising chinese opera song all of which was good humoured. Tomorrow Xian home of the warriors.

Sunday, 1 July 2012

Guilin

Guilin is set on the Li river & is surrounded by lakes in its limestone karst scenery. Our first outing (actually mine as Jennywasn't 100%)was to the Longji Rice Terraces a longish drive & a 40 minute climb but a spectacular view even in the overcast conditions prevailing. On the way up a Yao woman uncoiled her hair to reveal that it reached her feet. They only cut their hair once -when they marry - and even save this to attach to their coiled topknot. Our arrival was well timed as their was a ceremony in the rice terraces( before they were planted out) involving music, fireworks & a ceremonial buffalo ploughing the top field whilst local women in traditional dress walked the field boundaries. All of this took place while I had lunch at a hillside restaurant with a perfect view.
In the evening we took a hour long cruise around the lakes in town to see the local sights - bridges,pagodas,cormorant fishing etc & finished off by watching the nightly waterfall at the hotel of the same name - a bit bizarre

Next day we set off for a four hour lunchtime cruise to Yangshuo up the Li river  which was beautiful after the previous nights torrential rain but I failed to see the various animals that the limestone patterns were supposed to represent. Once in Yangshuo we had a cycle tour of the countryside (once we had run the gauntlet of  the town traffic & the tourist vendors at the town jetty) & a chancev to see the karst scenery from a terra firma perspective. We then had 2 days to relax & wander around the town on our own. Yangshuo was well provided with good & very reasonable places to eat & drink so was very suitable to laze a couple of days away in. We left there to travel back to Guilin to see the Elephant Trunk Hill & the highly impressive Reed & Flute Cave before taking our flight to "Panda " town Chengdu.

Tuesday, 26 June 2012

Shanghai 6-8 June

A 1 hour transfer from the airport in the rush hour gave us our first impression of the concrete jungle that is most of Shanghai Q How many 20 storey + buildings does Shanghai have A. 20,000+ !*!* Our hotel was close to & was called The Bund ( means quay) which is the early 19th century colonial part of the riverfront & our suite was a pleasant surprise after the small cabin on the boat.

Day 1 was a visit to the Bund proper before going to the Urban Planning Museum ( not as dry as it sounds) which housed some collections of historical photos of from as early as 1900 with comparative studies of the same places in modern times. It also housed a huge scale model of the city which had taken 40 people 3 months to complete which was very impressive. This was followed by a visit to the "silk factory" , a  glorified showroom but we did get to see the process of making a silk quilt from cocoon to final assembly which explained the cost as it is all done by hand.

Day 2 Started with a long drive to the outskirts of town to visit Zhujiajia - billed as the "Asian Venice" - which did have lots of waterways & bridges but is not remotely as beautiful as the original. We saw a traditional boat builder repairing a local boat & had a short ride along the waterways. After a lunch back on The Bund we visited the Jin Mao Tower & its 88th floor viewing platform for a biirds-eye view of the Pudong area of the city. Most of this area is less than 20 years old & contains vast numbers of tall buildings.. Our final stop was the history museum which was very impressive with beautifully displayed buddhist iconography as well as some superb bronze age relics & local ceramics.

Our final day saw us at where else a temple  followed after lunch by a trip on the Maglev train to the airport. Unfortunately this was in save power mode so we only reached 300km per hour but it only took 2 minutes to do it & our 34kms journey took only 8 minutes !

Yangtse Three Gorges Cruise to Yichang 3-6 June

We embarked the President No 1 at 6 oclock & immediately became target practice for their  marketing e.g. would you like to upgrade your cabin, buy a drinks package , buy the optional morning tour ! We only succumbed to the dinner/lunch drinks package which was 30 quid each for unlimited wine/beer/soft drinks during lunch & dinner for the duration of the cruise i.e 3 dinners/2 lunches. Food was plentiful with lots of choice & the Great Wall wine was OK.
Our excursions were : Day 1 Shibaozai a rectangular rock 160 mtrs high with a 12 storey pagoda dating from 1750 - interesting and a great view of the river. The local town consists of new builds due to the original being submerged by the increase in river height since the completion of the dam;

Day 2 Shennong Stream for a sampan trip ( local farmers are the oarsmen) up this beautiful tributary of the Yangtse which turned into a lighthearted eace between the crews who were aged 20 into nearly 70. Pre dam times the stream was much shallower & the boats were hauled up by ropes through the rapids a process which was replicated for us with cameras despite the downpour at the time. At the end of this we could see the crews climbing the sides of the 1 in 2 gorge to their village perched 100 metres up.

Day 3 Three Gorges Dam We went thorough the 5 locks of the dam at night so saw very little apart from the wall of concrete which was close enough to touch & dwarfed our ship.. Each section of the lock we passed through is 240 mtrs long 175 mtrs deep and I think about 30 mtrs wide. Viewed from above the following day you appreciate the scale of the project which provides 10% of China's electricity.  After viewing nthe dam site we had a 1 hour cruise through the last gorge to Yichang where we were taken to lunch by our guide before being taken to the airport for our flight to Shanghai.

Chongquing - Mountain City 30 may

Another long taxi ride from the airport with the chinese version of Lewis Hamilton via a series of motorway style interchanges slowing briefly to be encouraged to take a photo of the Yangtse from the bridge across it ( great shot of the parapet - no river !) .
Our time in Chongquing was spent wandering around looking for any semblance of english associated with food that we might be able to  translate into a meal option but it was of no avail & we eat in the hotel. We did have one local lunch when we took a city tour with 30 chinese which was a very mixed bag . There were of course shopping opportunities : jade + jewellery ; a temple Ming or Tang dynasty can't remember which now ; the "hotpot" factory ( actually quite interesting as we got to taste the various spicy sauces that they made ) and lunch which included the famed & fiery local dish Chongquing Hotpot . This tasted very good but we think consisted mainly of offal & even the visiting chinese didn't eat much. After lunch we visited a couple of prisons used by the Kuomintang pre-revolution & the "party" afterwards and the old headquarters of the CPC where both Mao & Chou En Lai had stayed.

Lijiang

Airport to hotel was a 45minute ride but only cost a  tenner ! The hotel was chinese style architecturally arranged round courtyards but very modern in fittings which all worked - can be a lot to ask apparently. We decided to go for walk into what was the old town of Lijiang ( it was actually the village of Shuhe) thinking of a 10 minute walk but as soon as we got out of the back door of the hotel went back in time as we were immediately in it. The town is a pastiche really  but given the "what to do in an earthquake  routine detailed in the hotels info" you can understand why. The buildings are a mix of original features/materials & modern ones but it does have the most ornate police station I have ever seen ( photo to come) and a square where the locals light a bonfire each night & dressup to sing & dance. Lijiang's importance is due to its position on the "tea horse road" intoChina from India via Tibet & there is a small old museum dedicated to this which was very interesting. The town has numerous restaurants which are all very cheap if you can decipher the menu. The only problem is that beer appears to be limited to 3-4% and is short on flavour as a result.
A visit to Lijiang old town proper was similar to Shuhe except on larger scale with more yak meat outlets & banks/ATM's every 100yards to provide cash to spend on it & all of the other tourist shops which line the streets. Onward tomorrow to Chongquing.

Kunming 24-27 May

Kunming was our best choice of first stop in China from Laos. First impressions were like any other airport i.e.queue for the official taxi rank while being approached by touts . We got a metered cab which took some 50 minutes to reach our hotel in the centre including 25 mins sat in rush hour traffict but only cost 3.50 pounds ! After having booked in it was too late to explore so we opted for the hotel restaurant . It only took 3 people to take our order -1 being summoned from reception by waiting staff seemingly frightened by our lack of local language. Ordering beer was marginally easier but only just. Anyway dinner was not Riverview but was OK & served its purpose.

Day 2 was spent wandering around the environs of the hotel & we visited 3 of the ancient gateways in town one via the quote "walking street" recommended by the free hotel map. This was actually a newish pedestrian shopping area next door to the somewhat more mature flower & bird markets ( flowers yes , birds no ). Although not particularly special from a historical/architectural viewpoint it was very interesting just to watch people going about their lives. We were virtually ignored apart from the odd child saying hello or staring. There very few if any other westerners. Dinner was a vegetarian noodle soup with all sorts of veg/fungi to add + herbs/spices to taste. 12 pounds for 2 with lge beer each !
 
Day 3 we decided to head down to see another historical site ( Jinri  Tower) a buddhist pagoda & by chance stumbled across another local market for food between that & one of the other city towers. The choice of fresh & mainly dried fungi was amazing. Our evening meal was japanese & fantastic for similar price to previous night.
 
Day 4 Just time enough to visit the Yunnan Historical Museum (free entry). This was comprised of a large exhibition of bronze age artefacts beautifully preserved & presented with good translation into english of their history. The other floor comprised artwork (much of which looked very tibetan to me) and local ethnic costumes which highly decorative and colourful。

Monday, 21 May 2012

V & Visa (2)

We then changed tack & decided that the fastest option was to use ChinaOdyssey to arrange the rest of our stay in China picking us up from where our pre-planned arrangements ended . They were very good & a couple of days later all we had to do was pay a 50% deposit . Unfortunately I filled in all the forms required , copied both sides of my debit card + my passport & faxed these off but unfortunately they do not take debit cards. They preferred Paypal so I attempted this route but was stymied by a transaction I had made a couple of weeks earlier to an Ghanaian charity which Paypal deemed dubious & bounced even though I subsequently told them it was legit. This resulted in Paypals labyrnthine security process kicking in & asking for proof of ID & address - not so easy from here- despite my protestations. Our third option was Jenny's credit card which seemed OK. While all this had been going on a weekend had arrived & gone we had booked more days in our hotel to allow for a further 4 day delay. These delays have prevented us from making any side trips from Vientiane as the Chinese consulate keep your passport to add the visa & you cant book into a Lao hotel without it. Today some 14 days after arriving in Vientiane we got our passports back complete with visas.
Fortunately Vientiane is a very relaxed place to spend time in. It has lots of good local restaurants, bars,very good coffee shops & bakeries and the Taj Mahal which reminded us of eating out in India all that time ago.As far as sights go there are a number of Wats dotted throughout the centre of town most of which have been rebuilt but  we visited what appeared to be the most interesting - Wat Sisaket.  This ones claim to fame was due to its survival from the Siamese invasion in the early 1800's who used it as a base whilst they were pillaging & destroying the rest.. It houses some 11,00 buddha images + the broken remains of a number of others.
Other than this we visited the National Historical museum which wassplit into two sections. The first was pre-history & charted the progress of civlization in Paos from stone age to the Siamese invasion. This doesn't amount to a great many artefacts lots of the most important pieces had been looted by subsequent invasions Chinese,Khmer,Siamese & French. This looting was compounded by the effects of action covered by the second section which started with the Indo-China war & was compounded many times by the wholesale bombardment it received in the Vietnam war..( i've read that Laos has received more ordnance per capita than any other country . A map of the country showing bomb sites as small red dots is solid red in the south of the country. What was amusing was the "revolutionary" language of the time used for the war exhibits as in "the imperialist U.S. forces & their puppets".. All in all though it was thought provoking without being quite as shocking as Cambodia or Vietnam. Next stop Kunming China !

Vientiane & Visas

It all seemed simple when we were in Luang Prabang ? Having read that there were very few queues at The Chnese consulate in Vientiane we decided to apply for our visas once we were here. We arrived having booked 4 nights at a hotel with a fitness room & pool to while away the 4 days that the visa would take to process. The process seemed relatively straightforward  based on the information available on the consulate site. We had to have proof of our flights into & out of China & where we were staying and there was a suggestion on a travel site that we might need to prove by a bank statement that we were able to survive  our period of stay - presumably they did not want us to be a burden on the Chinese state. We booked flights in to Kunming & thought that proof of an onward flight (albeit) from Sydney to LA would prove our intention to leave. We also arranged some hotels in the first 3 places we had chosen to visit & contacted a chinese tour company about a three cornered tour of Shanghai,Xian,Beijing at the end. I made the rash assumption that this provided an outline itinerary with a gap in the middle in which we could arrange a Yangtse river trip.
All of this took a couple of days. Completing the forms, 6 pages)  including an extra 2 as we were not applying from our home country was relatively easy & we copied all of the documentation including our passports & set off to walk to where the consulate was. Unfortunately the tiny symbol on the free schematic map we had turned out to be much further away than it looked and to be the Russian embassy ! Once we realised we hopped into a tuk tuk in the hope that we could get there before closing time @ 11.30. Fantastic - we made it. This was not goiod enough as we were informed that we had to have proof of booking for everyday of our planned stay & our actual flight booking out of China i.e. we had to book 30 days of accommodation and or tour plus flights & hope that we got visas ! Back to the drawing board !*?!

Saturday, 12 May 2012

Luang Prabang (2)

Old town Luang Prabang is a collection of villages clustered round the historical old town sited on a peninsular between the Nam Khan & Mekong rivers. From our hotel there are two routes into town & three bridges over the Nam Khan : the bamboo bridge , the old bridge & the new bridge which is the route taken by the nightly shuttle from our resort to the night market in town. The bamboo bridge is a fairly rickety affair reached via steep slopes on either side of the river. On the old bridge you have a choice of the unlit pedestrian path ( interesting after dark) or joining the vehicular section - fortunately motorcycles/cycles only - lit by oncoming headlights at ones elbow.
A trip on the Mekong for " a sunset cruise" turned out to be didsappointing due to the sun being obscured by cloud but watching what else happened on the river - monks bathing, children playing etc was sufficiently interesting to pass the time.
 The highlight was a day trip toKuang Si waterfalls which is about 20kms outside LP. An inauspicious arrival  ( usual tourist trap stalls) made me think this might have been a mistake but doubts were dispelledeas we climbed the path towards the falls. First we came upon the bear rehabilitation project which was series of very large enclosure populated by bears recovered from poachers who feed the chines medicine market with bear bile. The closures contained lots of things for the bears to climb,play with & sleep on and they were taking very good advantage of these. There was almost none of the trademark repetitive behaviour that is exhibited in zoos where animals are kept in confined spaces and alot of playful activity.
The falls were a series of pools leading to the view of the 100foot drop from the cliff. I and another english couple climbed to the top which required a lot of effort for almost no view at the top. We could however cool off by swimming in the pools at the bottom once we had slithered our way down which was excellent.
On our way back we had a look round a local furniture makers premises which was very interesting for the carpenter & builder in our group of 6. Next stop Vientiane & the Chinese consulate !/*!

Thursday, 3 May 2012

Another day [another country Laos - Luang Prabang

Easy flight from Hanoi & arrive at MyDream Resort by 11.30. The "resort" is very small,new with a large bathtub masquerading as a pool. The setting however is gorgeous & we have a balcony overlooking the garden which is on the banks of the Nam Khan river which joins the Mekong at Luang Prabang .We doze in our room during the 40c afternoon & take the shuttle down to the "city" for dinner.Seeing somewhere for the first time at night ( with no streetlights ) gives you a distorted view particularly when you are dropped off at the quiet end of town. Today we realised there is no part of town that isn't quiet. Luang has more than its fair share of wats & monasteries & the National Museum (which was until 40 years ago the Royal Palace).It also has plenty of good places to eat most of which are very reasonable e.g10 pounds for a local meal for two with beer. The local sausage with ginger,chilli,lemon grass & pork is particularly tasty & most places offer a few Thai favourites.

Tuesday, 1 May 2012

Hanoi 28/4-2/5

Our last days in Hanoi were spent mopping up the last few attractions to be seen. We visited the Tran Quoc Pagoda on West Lake which dates back to the 6th century & is beautiful. The setting was a little bizarre because it was a public holiday & there were lots of swan shaped pedalos out on the lakes. We then went to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum (unfortunately closed when we got there)  followd by the Water Puppet Theatre This was an excellent demonstration of local customs ( ploughing rice fields,fishing, dancing etc ) accompanied by music. The puppeteers are behind a curtain up to their waist in water & it was enchanting ,very skilful & at times extremely funny. 

Sunday, 29 April 2012

Ha Noi 25/26

Arrived in Ha Noi with 2 things in mind
1. Sort Chinese visa - this based on anecdotal evidence & the official Chinese website is like a cross between Catch 22  & a Kafka novel (The Trial). Have now decided to attempt this in Vientiane where despite the same rules success seems much more likely.
2. A cruise on Ha Long Bay which turns out to be superb scenery & great fun too

Our 1st day consisted of cruise out into bay , excellent lunch, trip into largest cave in the bay, kayaking, dinner & an attempt to catch squid.
Day 2 opened with coffee at 6am then Tai Chi at 6.30  before breakfast . At 7.30 we set off to Can Ba - the largest island  in the 2000 island group. Once there I did  3 climbs up the rock face ( Jenny 1) which was exhilarating despite the lacerated hand & shin after slipping on the second. You cant see the terror on the photos ! Another excellent dinner that evening & we slept very well. Day 3 was our return to Hanoi

Tuesday, 24 April 2012

Hue - Imperial City 21-24 April

The  3 hour train ride ($3 each) from Danang hugs the coast & the views as you climb up & through the intervening mountains are spectacular.Hue is the Imperial City of the Nguyen dynasty & is still the provincial capital The old Imperial city is a walled & moated site 400x600M sq on the banks of the Perfume River built between 1805 & 1833 with a number of outlying tombs now in the suburbs. The old city was badl damaged in the wars of 1947 (Independence war) & the Vietnam war in 1969 and much of the most important central Imperial palace lare now in ruins or non existent. It is still worth a $4 visit to see what remains ( particularly the small exhibition of old photographs & costumes . It is an oasis of calm amidst the newer buildings & constant hum of thousands of motorcycles outside.
The city is used by many tourist as a base for tours of the Demilitiarised Zone from the Vietnam war but we decided to pass on these .

Sunday, 22 April 2012

Hoi An 18-22 April

Uneventful journey here & arrive at the Hoi An Glory a 10 minute walk from the old town. Hoi An has been inhabited since 2nd century AD & was until the 17th century a major trading port with India, China, Japan, ,Holland & latterly the French. The port was more or less abandoned when the harbour silted up  & trade moved 20 miles to DaNang. As a result the old town (4 x 4 blocks) is a time capsule of buildings in a mix of Vietnamese,Chinese & Japanese style with a culture to match. The town at night is dotted throughout with thousands of paper lanterns & a fairytale atmosphere. It was also very quiet as the shopkeepers seemed to outnumber the tourists and we found it difficult to understand how they could all be making a living. Stand out meal was a tasting menu of local dishes at Miss Ly's Cafe 22 all of which were beautifully presented & tasted wonderful.
 The town is set amidst a delta of small agricultural islands joined by an assortment of ferries & bridges of various types. These we explored on a half day cycling tour with Heaven and Earth Cycle Tours ( http://www.vietnam-bicycle.com/ ) withour excellent guides Lan & Lin. Our tour started with a 45 minute boat trip to an island in the delta where we had demo of straw mat weaving ( in a typical Vietnamese home) by an 86 year old lady who had been doing it since she was 10 ! We then saddled up for a ride across a series of bridges and a 3 foot wide sandy & rutted path with a shrimp farm on either side - no place for the unsteady we thought. We then arrived at the floating bridge a 100yard long 3 feet wide path undulating in all directions & with 2 way traffic - not for the faint hearted i.e. Jenny. This was followed by a cool drink & a demonstration of : the construction of a basket boat similar to a coracle ; then how to paddle it & a chance to try it ourselves which is not as easy as the demo looked !  Next up was a cycle to the brick factory to see that process ( 10 hours a day for $2.50) & then the process of inlaying shell in furniture ,etching & polishing it. Our final visit was to a boatbuilders yard for a brief look at the structure of the local boats before getting 5the ferry back to the old town. We only cycled 10 kms but it was a fascinating trip & great value for money.

Friday, 13 April 2012

Nha Trang 12 April

The train ride wasn't so bad -we had booked "comfy" seats - at least they were 20 years ago. Nha Trang is a beach resort & our choice of hotel ( 18 quid a night & it's new) puts us a block away from the beach with a huge choice of bars/restaurants & even a brewhouse on our doorstep. Excellent Indian restaurant "Ganesh" & Tex-Mex "Texas Steakhouse" + numerous good cheap Vietnamese.
Apart from the beach there is little else to do in town but we went on the "4 Island Tour" which is really only three as you only set foot on these. We had a chance to swim & snorkel - not much use to the visually impaired - and at a swish island resort with a final visit to a somewhat bizarre aquarium on island three. The highlight however was the lunch & "show" ( an aging vietnamese duo on drums & guitar see pics) with an assortment of the staff & tourists singing & Jenny dancing . After this it was time to take a jump off the top of the boat to wake up - quite exhilarating. We were the only western couple on board but had a great time with anassortment of Vietnamese,Thai,Korean (always up to party it seems) & Cambodians.
After the rest here its off to Hoi An by plane for serious cultural immersion tomorrow.

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Ho Chi Minh City

The first thing that struck me here was the number of motorcycles & the lack of tuk-tuks as we travelled from the airport. So far we have visited Reunification (previously Independence ) Palace a french designed but Asian influenced building which is a snapshot from the past in its furnishing as well as housing lots of military equipment in its original settings from the time of the war.
A visit to the "War Remnants Museum" was much more sombre as it is sited in the prison used by the south vietnamese  ( & their American allies/CIA) to interrogate prisoners of war. This may have been where the US acquired some of the techniques used subsequently in Cambodia & much later elsewhere in the world ( Iraq etc) e.g waterboarding or a variation on it. They also used equipment left by the french i.e. the guillotine - one of which is the first "exhibit" that we saw- and brought back into use an island prison  built by the french when the South Vietnamese were fighting them for independence. The equipment on show used in the war was nothing compared to the statistics on the volume of bombs & mines used by the US in the conflict - particularly those containing napalm & dioxin (agent Orange) to defoliate vast tracts of the North. The birth defects from these are still appearing 40 years later !  They also exhibit  a lot of photos  which appeared in the west at the time of places such as Mai Lai where some 600 people - mainly women,children & old men were slaughtered by the US Marines.
Even the contemporary arts museum in HCM City - a lovely mix of French & Chinese architecture -is heavily influenced by the war , not surprising I suppose but does contain some beautiful pieces. After HCM w are looking forward to a more relaxed time in Nha Trang & only have to spend 7 hours on a train to get there. 

Angkor revisited

Our second visit to Angkor was to see Baphuon temple & adjacent elephant & leper terraces & we intended to complete our sightseeing with a view of of sunset from Phnom Bakheng . Due to a grey late afternoon sunset was not to be but it was a good view of Tonle Sap Lake.  We did on our final night find "The Indian" restaurant which was better than most of the food that we had tasted in India itself. Overall eating out in Cambodia has been very good & extremely cheap - average 15$ US for a meal with a couple of beers or up to 30 if you go upmarket & have a bottle of wine. Tomorrow we depart for Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam

Sunday, 1 April 2012

Siem Reap & Angkor

A 3 hour ride & we are delivered to the Siem Reap bus station. 10 mins later & we arrive at the Cheathata hotel . We are a 5 minute walk from pub street where numerous restaurants,bars of varying cuisines are situated  & if these are not enough there are at least 4 within 100 yards of the hotel front door - handy for a khmer whisky nightcap. After a days rest we book for a full day trip to Angkor Wat. An 8'oçlock start gets us there before the heat of the day & we visit the Wat itself crossing the causeway over the moat first to see the frieze round the walls that was 2 mtrs high & stretched 130 x 150 mtrs. Our guide endeavoured to identify the main characters royal & godly ( at least one thought he was both) & the supporting cast of demons,monkeys used for their armies. This was easy for him but with a site built over 600 years by people with similar names it did become a little confusing for us especially following the shift of religion from hindhu to buddhist with some gods recognised by both !Next we went to to Ta Prohm (featured in Tomb Raider apparently) which was fascinating as it was difficult to tell whether the building was supporting the trees or vice versa - both were true. Some minor restoration is being carried out here but the amount of numbered stones lying around(100's of square yards) suggest a nightmare of  a 3 dimensional puzzle. At the centre of Angkor Thom is the Bayon Temple one of the last to be built which has countless serene Buddha faces at every turn. By 3 oçlock we were exhausted & decided to call it a day as we still have 2 days left on our site pass.

Friday, 30 March 2012

Battambong -Bamboo

6 hours on a bus & we arrived in Battambong and were delivered into a tuk-tuk ambush as we got off the bus. One $ & 5 minutes to our hotel. Battambong is the second largest "city" in Cambodia but appears to the outsider to be a small country town surrounded by huge rice fields ,cattle,and fish farms. Here again we visited the site of Khmer Rouge activity prompted by a chance meeting with a mancunian who taught political science at the local college. This was not quite as shocking as our previous visits but contained a building, a monks refectory ,that had been left locked by them since 1979 because the Khmer Rouge used it as a prison.  As a diversion from pagodas,wats we decided to take a ride out to & then on the bamboo train. This runs a 7km each way trip for $10. We sit down on our train which consists of 2 axles (one with drive belts in place) plus a wood & bamboo platform which sits on the axles. Add a  small 2 stroke engine & off you go at what I worked out must be at top speed 40kms per hour. When you meet someone going the other way one carriage is taken off the tracks the other rolls by & is replaced all in a couple of minutes. Shame my camera battery ran out when the first shot was taken.  Next stop Siem Reap & Angkor Wat

Saturday, 24 March 2012

Palace & Persecution 21 March

A visit to the Royal Palace here was underwhelming as one of the principal attractions was the Throne Room but they didn't tell you before entry the day we did that it was closed. The other main attraction was the "Silver Pagoda containing some finely worked gold caskets & decorative items  surrounded by 100's of gold buddhas of from tiny a couple of inches to several feet tall. The silver floor that the pagoda is famous for turns out to be silver tiles mainly covered in carpet  with many currently held in place with gaffer tape ! 
Our penultimate morning in towns was used by yisiting the Cheung Ek Genocidal Museum better known as the Killing Fields (more correctly one of, as there have been 300 such sites found in Cambodia).We were "greeted by"two one legged men, presumably from land mines, with caps in hand that you could not ignore.Our $5 dollar entry fee included the audio tour which I would normally have rejected but turned out to be invaluable as it contained a detailed explanation of what we were seeing. Most of the buildings on the original site were recycled after the war & have been replaced by simple shelters with a brief explanation of the originals purpose.Approximately half of the mass execution spots/graves -they used the cheapest form of murder they could - have been excavated revealing the remains of 10,000 men,women & children. One grave was found to contain 100 headless men accused of being traitors or of having vietnamese heads on cambodian bodies. In some parts of the site you come across fractions of clothing or bone disturbed by rain or wildlife which is quite macabre.. The audio tour included one piece recorded by a guard recounting his duties & a short life history of a young man who avoided death & ended up running the documentation centre recording details of evidence for the regimes prosecution. Sad to say the trial of some very senior figures is still incomplete by a tribunal who won't accept the evidence of  "Duch", the head man at the S-21 interrogation centre, against them.  A chilling place togo!

Tomorrow we have a 6 hour coach ride ($5 each)to Battambong .

Monday, 19 March 2012

Phnom Penh - Cambodia

A 1 hour hop from Bangkok to here then a 1 hour taxi ride ($10 US) & we arrive at our hotel which is fine.First day in we thought that we would see the Royal Palace, just up the road but we were not dressed up enough for it so we spent a very interesting time in the National Museum next door which was packed with articles from Angkor Wat both pre & post the conversion of the Khmer kingdom from Hindu to predominantly Buddhist. There was also quite a lot of finds & information from its iron/bronze age a 1000 years previous to this. The Khmer food is similar to that of Thailand without the injection of chillies although generally in Thailand the food was toned down to western  tastes so extra chillies were called for by me.
 Our second day was much more sombre as we visited the Genocide Museum which is in a primary school which became S-21 Interrogation Centre used by the Khmer Rouge between 1975-9. It has been preserved as it was at the time  Something like 15,000 men,women & children were "processed" here , the general concensus being that only 14 or so survived. The process consisted of photographing them and keeping  them in a mixture of cells ( some a tiny 0.8 x 2 mtrs) between torture sessions until they confessed to whatever crime against the regime that they were accused of e.g being intellectual . Once they confessed they were taken to the killing fields  for execution . I wondered when seeing the methods they used whether they learned "waterboarding" from the americans  or vice versa. The enormity of this is that S-21 was one of many centres that resulted in 25% of the population dying while the world looked on.

Saturday, 17 March 2012

Ayutthya by plane & train

.A short hop by plane & an 2 hour train ride for 35p each - air con courtesy of ceiling fans & open window - & we arrived in Ayutthya & 5 minutes later at the Bann Thai resort. This was a small complex of about 15 mainly self contained villas/bungalows  set around a small lake & bounded by a canal which backed on to our villa.You would not have known that 4 months earlier the whole site was under 4 feet of water as evidenced by tide marks on trees. It was a 10 minute walk to the ferry across the river (8p each) and we wandered through the local market down to the historical site. Ayutthya was in the 14th century the capital of ,as was then, Siam which covered most of present day northern Thailand & parts of Cambodia & Laos and traded with Iran,China and later in the 16th century France,Holland& Portugal . It has many wats some of which we only scratched the surface. We visited Kanchanaburi site of the Kwai Bridge & rode the "death railway" ( they call it scenic now ?) & visited cemetery commemorating the the 17,000 servicemen of all countries who died in its construction. This number is dwarfed by the 100,000 Thai,Burmese, Malays & singaporeans who also lost their lives a chilling thought . Our last visit was to Lopburi ( a satellite city for the king of Ayutthya) for the regional museum (set in the old palace ) & very interesting , the monkey temple and a couple of Khmer style wats. Tomorrow Phnom Penh Cambodia.

Farewell Chiang Mai

Our last day in Chiang Mai was spent lazily with an evening outing to a local cultural show which started with a selection of local food accompanied by traditional music. This was followed by demonstrations of local dancing of various northern Thai styles including an impressive sword dance by a particularly fast & athletic young man. These were followed by moving outside to a covered arena ( past the inevitable stalls) where the dancing was by local hill tribes & children. An excellent value evening.All that remained was to have one last glass of wine with our lovely hosts  at the Green Tulip. Tomorrow Ayutthya !

Thursday, 15 March 2012

Doi Suthep & Hmong Village

Doi Suthep is the second most important temple in Thailand (the first houses the emerald buddha in Bangkok). It sits on a hilltop @ about 5500ft & is reached via 330 steps or in our case the cable car. It is quite small & was crowded with pilgrims ( it was a weekend) circling the stupa three times with flowers, incense & candle reciting a prayer.  On the lower tier there were demonstrations of local dance and music by children from local schools. The other item on our itinerary for the day was the Hmong or Meo village who originated in southern China but have lived in the area now for some 50 years. With the exception of an exorcism ceremony being performed on a local house - the highlight of which was to be an the slaughter of a chicken which we bowed out of - it was essentially a craft market for local products + a liberal sprinkling of goods imported from elsewhere. Our evening was spent at the Chiang Mai night market where we happened upon a free outdoor performance from a blues duo made up of a 60 year old Liverpudlian and a young local guitarist. This ended early as "Boy" had to play the local blues bar at 8.45. We went along & were treated to an excellent 3 piece band driven along by "Boy" in Buddy Guy mode that was unmistakable. Another piece of musical fortune.

Saturday, 10 March 2012

Maetaman Elephant Centre etc

An 8am pick up for this & a long drive to the centre. Thses elephants "work" for 6 hours a day & are then turned out to roam loose until the following day. On arrival we fed the mother & baby & then watched them all being washed which they clearly liked before sitting down for the "show ". The playing of harmonicas (in time) amazed me as did the "artists" in the group & the football was fun & the also showed them shifting timber as they would have done for 12 hours a day before mechanisation.. We then did the ox cart ride to the retail opportunity  followed by the elephant ride back part of which was up river giving them an opportunity to spray passing rafters. Lunch was good buffet & it was then our turn on the rafts. After this we moved on to the butterfly park & played spot one - there were so few. The orchid house next door was however excellent with an enormous collection of colours & types . We passed on "Tiger Kingdom" as clearly questionable but did like the elephant poo paper place - not very smelly at all !

Chiang Mai - 6 March

A 2 hour flight from Phuket & a 10 minute taxi ride & we arrived the Green Tulip House in Samlan Road & are greeted by a very effervescent lady dressed in black leggings ,a purple top & purple Doc Martens - not the usual attire for a Singaporean in their 50's. Our double room was small,functional & spotlessly clean which made it a bargain for 15 pounds a night which included a tea/toast/fruit breakfast.
After a week of rest by the beach the idea of sightseeing appealed so we booked up a sequence of tours through Nine the other half of the dynamic duo running the Green Tulip.
Our first was a trip up the river Ping on a scorpion tailed boat ( only 3 of us) with an excellent guide who regaled us with a history of the river accompanied by some lovely sepia toned photos from the early 20th century. We later stopped to see his garden where after introducing us to the some important local flora e.g mulberry,jackfruit,mango & tamarind he pointed out a particularly large ants nest high in a tree . This he said he would harvest to eat the eggs in 2-3 months. Over lunch he demonstrated locally made eel,fish & snake traps. Next task for the day Thai cooking class ! We were given a menu to choose which dishes we wanted. Jenny & I chose different dishes to have as taste of each others produce. We were taken yto the local market & introduced to the local ingredients ( small green chillies are known as mose shit chillies. We were split into three groups for our different dishes then tried the results. it was great fun & the food was surprisingly good - the only drawback there was too much of it !

Thursday, 8 March 2012

PHUKET

Phuket is essentially a beautiful beach destination dotted with small enclaves, e.g Patong , of the kind of excess that Thailand is notorious for i.e discos & bars with  predominantly female staff and male custom. Kamala where we stayed for 8 days was smaller & much more relaxed but still had a lovely beach and enough variety of restaurants to satisfy the most eclectic of taste buds all of which were very reasonable and good quality . Our stay was split between the beautiful Aquamarine Beach Resort ( a 4* 70% off deal ) which was a 15 minute uphill/downhill walk into town & the Taro "hotel" which was a brand new serviced apartment closer to town but without the pool complex & excellent buffet breakfast of the Aquamarine. We generally just wandered around the town stopping occasionally to rehydrate, usually  in the Kho Kee Bar & Restaurant a lovely friendly family run place on the beach road. Great value . Our one extravagance was a day trip to Phi Phi island  where we declined the included snorkelling option in favour of a long session of swimming & shade bathing either side of our buffet lunch.

Saturday, 25 February 2012

Penang & Georgetown

After a 35 minute flight we arrived in Penang is another small island but with much more of interest culturally and historically. There is a relatively well preserved old town where only a few tall modern buildings interrupt the skyline of 19th & early 20th century chinese & colonial buildings. It has a very diverse mix of cultures from  ethnic malays, chinese and indian with the mix of religions & temples/mosques & churches that these support . We really enjoyed wandering round the old town & ending up in Little India with a meal indistinguishable in taste & price from those we had in India. As we are still having trouble with train booking we are flying out tomorrow to Phuket for 4 nights and will plan our Thai travels from there.

Wednesday, 22 February 2012

Langkawi & Bella Vista

Our arrival was uneventful on the island apart from the look of our pre booked hotel which was somewhere betwen french chateau & high Eurodisney - see photolater - with a overlay of maintenance deficiencies that would not be out of place in Fawlty Towers. Our room turned out to be a 2 bed 2 bath apartment where everything that we needed worked & included an average buffet breakfast. There was also 2 restaurants - 1 wet 1 dry - and a reasonably sized infinity pool for our daily exercise.The redeeming feature was that the staff were very helpful & invariably smiley which made up for the other shortcomings.The "lagoon" behind the hotel was home to fish, kingfishers and seemingly lots of monitor lizards some as big as 6 foot. We found one one night jamming itself in a storm drain presumably in search of prey such as a tasty rat. The local restaurants specialised in seafood and we tried several types of fish - steamed in tom yum our favourite - & lovely soft shell crab . Our favourite was called the "Wonderland Food Store" where we had 4 excellent meals .After a lovely lazy week here tomorrow we are on a short hop flight to Penang for 3 nights as it is easier to pick up the night train to our next destination in Thailand Hua Hin.

Wednesday, 15 February 2012

Kuala Lumpur

KL is not my favourite city but the timing of our flight meant we had to stay one night which turned into two when we couldn't book a train to link with the Langkawi ferry for the following day.  We spent our time touring the few places of interest that we were attracted to travelling by local air con trains very cheaply - 3 stops for 20p !. The butterfly park was good value for 4 pound each. It resembled in feel a japanese garden in that, although in a very confined space, it seemed quite big because of the twists & turns of the pathways. It also had lots of running water and ponds at every turn teeming with koi carp and a vast collection of other insects & amphibeans. After this we went to the "bird park" - aviary to you and I - which they sat is the largest free flight space for birds in the world. There are however some cages for larger predator birds - for captive breeding purposes - but otherwise it is a huge space with some beautiful birds including the most strikingly coloured scarlet ibis. Dining out in local cafe was very reasonable and generally a filling meal for two plus a couple of beers each come to about 15 quid ! Our next stop is Langkawi  via the sleeper train to Alor Star - an improvement on India & only 9quid each for a 10hour journey - and then the ferry to Kuah.

The Lake District - NZ style

After leaving Blenheim, we drove down to Lake Tekapo via the coast road to Kaikoura stopping to see the seal colony on the way. An overnight in Rangiora on the outskirts of Christchurch & we headed on virtually empty roads to the lakes. We found a place to stay in Wanaka and went down to the lake to sit & take in the colour of the lake and admire the surrounding scenery  - the pictures cannot do justice to this or Lakes Pukaiki & Wanaka which we saw on subsequent days. On our last day in Wanaka we took a jet boat ride ( powered by a 6litre V8 & capable of 80 kph) across the lake and down & back up through the rapids on the Clutha River - great fun. The following day we drove to Oamaru via Moeraki to see the boulders & visited the yellow eyed penguin colony - shame they weren't in but a few seals were ! A drive a flight & Malaysia here we come !*!

Friday, 10 February 2012

Marlborough

A 30 minute drive brought us to Marlborough and our motel (Two Tree Lodge ) new & beautifully presented which has not always been the case. Unfortunately our timing delay on the car meant we were too late for a wine tour and our research had to be conducted via supermarket & restaurants as  it was sunday & the following day was a bank holiday (Waitangi Day) - so much Sauvignon Blanc and so little time nevertheless we applied ourselve4s to the task & did see the home of Mount Riley. This has been supplanted in my taste by Dogpoint which if it is available in the UK I strongly recommend.

Picton by night

Our ferry trip was not the finest as although it was calm it was grey & misty for the whole journey & as we had not been able to book a car for that day stayed the night another good result. We found both a restaurant with exceptional cooking "Escape to Picton" & an irish pub "Seamus's" with an excellent one/occasionally two man band specialising in blues and we had an excellent evening. Tomorrow we set off south east for the capital of the Marlborough region Blenheim.

Wellington & "The Sevens"

The timing of our arrival in Wellington was fortuitous as we discovered over dinner in a nice bar in Lambton Quay.. The following day was the first day of the Rugby Sevens competition. Over breakfast having already seen dozens of costumed characters ( native americans,cowboys, superheroes , Mash 4077 characters etc ) wandering by. We set off on the cable car/funicular to go up to the Botanical Gardens for the fantastic harbour view and a brief walk around the gardens before riding down & following our ears to the source of the music down by the harbour. There we were treated to the spectacle of large groups of thematically  costumed people taking turns to "strut their stuff "on a raised walkway to the music - bizarre. As it was past beer thirty we thought ought to at least join in part of the party & watch the big screen and have a beer. The bars on the front were heaving with revellers in high spirits & we had a chat with a couple of guys from The Jarmy Army" a large band of middle aged guys dressed in pink pyjamas with cats on them. We also saw beer kegs, plane crews, nuns & priests ,flintstones,romans etc etc - the themes were endless. On advice we did not attempt to get tickets for the stadium but got to see a lot as the games was on every screen in every bar in town. Tomorrow we were off to the South Island via ferry.

Sunday, 5 February 2012

Napier - Art Deco City

Napier boasts a vast number of art deco buildings built after the earthquake there in 1928 wiped out a vast number of their predecessors in minutes. The town is as a result a time capsule as lots of these have been preserved & restoration and recent new buildings are sympathetic to the art deco style. The town is also the main focaus of the Hawkes Bay wine region & has been making wine since the missionaries arrived in 1851. A lovely place to spend a relaxing couple of days

Lake Taupo & the the Tongarairo National Park

After a hour or so drive we arrived at the Huka Falls which is created by the only exit of water from Lake  Taupo the Waikato river and is very loud/impressive. The equivalent of enough water to fill 2 olympic swimming pools goes over the approximately 5 meters wide falls every 3 seconds. We watched the Huka Falls jetboat come to within about 15 meters of the falls .Compared to the previous lakes we had seen Taupo was huge and is the crater of a long extinct volcano which, apparently when it blew, threw some one hundred cubic miles of debris into the atmosphere ! The lake is some 35kms long by 25kms wide and is used for all sorts of water activities plus there is a local bungy if you are that way inclined. We were not! Next day we set off to drive to the chairlift at the Tongarairo ski fields stopping to take a short walk to the Kawhai Falls where we watched kayakers launching themselves off a 10 meter drop into the stream below ! Once at the skifields we were disappointed by the chairlift rising into the misty gloom of Tongarairo -much like getting the train up Snowdon- so we didn't bother. We did go on a walk up the ridge from Whakapapa village below and were rewarded by a much clearer view of Mt Ruapehu & Ngaurahoe as well a a clearer view of Tongarairo.

Saturday, 4 February 2012

Rotorua -

Arrived here after an easy drive down from Auckland. After booking in and a tea/cricket break we set off for a short drive to see Lake & Mount Tarawera. The mountain used to have extensive pink and white limestone/silica  terraces until it blew in 1885 reducing the height of the mountain to half its former height. Despite the loss of the terraces it is still a very arresting sight and the lake is beautiful. The following morning after breakfast/checkout we visited the Whakawharewa "thermal village where some displaced maori were relocated as a result of the Mt Tarawera eruption. The village is built within an active but stable thermal area & uses this for winter heating, water for bathing and steam cooking . We saw a small "cultural show" which amounted to short  local craft demo plus some singing/dancing and  D-I-Y Haka. Charming really

Auckland - City Of Sails

We arrived here on 25th & got the airport bus into town . We stayed at the largest hotel in NZ (****) for the bargain price of  50 quid a night. After tea we headed off into town to find food & drink & came surprisingly to a Belgian beer bar in Vulcan Alley ? Sticking to our drink local policy we eschewed  beer in favour of a local 'ish Sauvignon Blanc followed by a stroll round the city centre to familiarise ourselves with the layout & the hills ! After breakfast we met Jenny's erstwhile colleague Shelley from St Lukes ( a kiwi) down at the harbour to get some local recommendations on what to do & to arrange dinner with them later . The afternoon was spent walking to the "domain' ( a public open space ) and the site of the Auckland museum. We spent an couple of hours on national, history  - where the Maoris originated from and who they are related to etc - and even more interesting the geological history covering its volcanic nature and its resulting stunning landscape. There was a very good dramatisation of the next explosion of Auckland  Harbour staged as if you were in a local home watching the events as reported on TV  that is until you see the tsunami approaching ,the screen goes blank ,the lights go out & the room shakes violently ! Our next day was spent on a boat trip & tour to Waiheke Island ( in the Hauraki Gulf) off Auckland however much like our time on the "Sunshine Coast" previously the weather turned sour wet & windy before long and although the place was beautiful once more we were forced to take refuge in a bar.

Thursday, 2 February 2012

Farewell Geelong

Our last 10 days in Geelong were spent quietly apart from an evening out to Queenscliff with Tom & Pam Callaly to see Jimi Hocking in what we thought was a pub. On arrival we were fairly apprehensive when we discovered that the venue was the Uniting Church and I assumed that it was to be a dry night. On arrival the first thing we saw was the sign to the bar - quite a relief - and suitably watered we went into church for the performance which was excellent coming as it did with lots of amusing anecdotes about his long life in the business (he's in his 50's). A wine interval was followed by another set the highlight of which was - for me anyway - an instrumental version of Voodoo Chile . Another great night ! The rest  of our stay was spent with Paul,Liz,William & Sarah with nights out at Tom & Pams for a barbecue & an interesting evening at a guy called Martin's , a "Maxs-Facs" surgeon that we had met at Michael & Leslies a couple of weeks earlier. My over indulgence on both these occasions was followed by a visit to the local gym for penance ! Now New Zealand

Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Blues Train -Queenscliff

Our evening on the Blues Train started by only just making the start of the journey before proceedings were due to commence. Unfortunately for our fellow "trainees" (Paul,Liz,Tom,Pam,Michael,Leslie,Peter,Kath + 2 whose names escape me see picture)we had the tickets and they could not acess the bar on the platform until these had been shown ! However in the nick of time bottles of wine & ice buckets full of beer were acquired to go with the buffet dinner that was collected on the platform and eaten on the train. Dinner completed ,we got down to the serious business of the evening - the music. In our first carriage we heard "Mr Black & Blue" ( acoustic solo guitarist/singer) as we set off down the line at a steady enough rate to avoid spillage of alcohol other than in throats. say 10m.p.h.. As Mr B & B ended his set some 35 mins later we rolled into our first carriage change/refuelling stop at the bar. Next act was the Jimi Hocking Band (who I'd seen on a previous Blues Train trip) who were excellent and as the carriage had a small dance area there was an opportunity to rock & roll in 2 ways simultaneously. The evening took off at this point as we had to drink the wine fast to avoid spilling it ! A similar experience followed in the next carriage after our our next bar stop ( an award winninng blues band in 2011 apparently) and very good but unfortunately my memory had gone by this stage so I cannot remember the name. The last act was a guitar/harmonica duo who were both excellent & reminded me of seeing Sonny Terry & Brownie McGhee in my youth at the Marquee only this was on a moving train which added a lot to the whole experience. I would recommend it to anyone who likes music.

Saturday, 21 January 2012

Sydney

On arrival back into Sydney we set off on the half an hour train ride  to Gordon (across the bridge !) where we were met by our generous host Graham & driven to their home. We spent a very relaxing evening with him,Pat and their lovely kids Michael & Victoria. After breakfast on sunday we went on a tour of the Hawkesbury River area with Graham & Pat including the local national park where we were lucky enough to spot a small group of kangaroos. I got my customary shot of the local faunas backside but also managed a reasonable shot of what appeared to be the group sentry. We visited one or two beautiful lookouts and had lunch at a marina cafe before visiting "Summer Bay' ( Home & Away Beach" for those familiar with the program  ) to stretch our legs on the sand for half an hour.
Our next few days were spent savouring as much Sydney as we could fit in. We walked round the bay from The  Rocks at the southern end of the Harbour Bridge to the Opera House and after studying the that from all angles carried on to the Botanical Gardens which are immediately adjacent. We spent quite a lot of time on the ferries out of Circular Quay and I even managed to lose my cap on a particularly gusty day en route from the Lunar Park jetty to Darling Harbour. For the benefit of our Canadian followers (hope you are all well) on one day I remarked that the cruise ship docked in Darling Harbour looked quite like one that we had been on 5 years ago. We then found as we got closer that this was because it was the same ship the Sea Princess. Following our garden theme we visited the Chinese Garden in the Darling Quarter which despite being cheek by jowl with skyscrapers managed to be a haven of peace and very relaxing. We also visited the year 2000 Olympic Park stadium to watch a Big Bash Twenty 20 game between the Sydney Thunder & the Perth Scorchers. This began as Graham, Michael a couple of his work colleagues plus us but expanded to a group of 15 which made it more fun and made up for the poor performance of the local side who lost comprehensively. Our last day was spent at Maritime Museum  in Darling Harbour followed by the Sydney Fish market where we had a beautiful lunch of oysters (Jenny & I have developed a taste for these)  & mixed seafood of superb quality. We thoroughly enjoyed Sydney and are indebted to Graham & Pat for their hospitality . 

Tuesday, 17 January 2012

Sydney & Blue Mountains

Once we  or particularly me had recovered from our New Year exertions we set off on the 3rd for Sydney where we stayed near Chinatown/Darling Harbour for a night before catching the train to Katoomba the main centre for exploring the Blue Mountains. Once there we collected the hire car and set off for Hotel Blue(HB) . HB was quite an odd place in that on the lower ground floor there was a very modern coffee bar - excellent espresso- whereas the rest of the hotel seemed to be a fairly good example of an old & quirky Alpine style lodge with the addition of the odd comfortable chair ,a pool table & some board games. It was however clean & cosy had hot water and quite a decent full breakfast.
The following day we set off to explore fairly aimlessly went to a lookout or two ( beautiful views at all ) & mistimed our arrival at the Zig Zag Railway - an old mining line - by 10 mins which only ran every 2 hours. We decided to try the Mount Toomah botanical gardens which turned out to be an excellent choice as we not only had a superb lunch overlooking them but they were absolutely impeccably presented  & on a  scale that meant you could see the majority in an hour & a half which was enough in the heat.
In the evening we tried one or two of the local ales in a converted bank - only built in the 20's because the hotelier next door thought his establishment needed its own and finished off with a meal in a local restaurant. The following day the weather was reminiscent of autumn in London on the river i.e. you couldn't see more than thirty yards because of the mist. Undaunted & optimistic we set off to see Wentworth Falls & the Jamison Valley from a lookout with mixed success - no view of the valley at all but several hundred steps down into the valley we could see the falls. We gave in at this point and decided to spend the afternoon watching australia demoralise India at cricket. What would the next day bring ?
Our final BM day was spent in glorious sunshine at Scenic World where we took the cable car down into the Jamison Valley (270mtrs down) and had a 40 mins walk through the rainforest before taking the scenic railway back to the top. The railway once served a mine on the valley floor and is steep enough almost to be a lift. Our final view of the valley was from the cable car across the valley & back which had great views all round and also a glass bottom. we then set off to go back to Sydney

Sunday, 1 January 2012

Happy New Year

New Years Eve was spent like any other saturday morning, at the gym only with Liz & Michael & Leslie their neighbours. Leisurelink in Geelong makes John Orwell Sports Centre look like something out of the ark. Three squat racks and about a dozen olympic bars & adjustable benches with all the weights & cardio machines you could wish for & everything in pristine condition/working order. My session went quite well considering that we had consumed most of a wine lake at Michael & Leslies the previous night. After a nap in the afternoon NYE was spent quietly & relatively soberly at a very nice chinese -albeit not as good as RiverView - in Geelong followed by slumping in front of the TV. Jenny & Liz  stirred themselves from the sofa to watch the fireworks in geelong from the balcony .
Happy New Year to all our followers ! - thats both of you then